GIBRALTAR FOR CRUISERS
It's a surprise to many people, sailing into the Bay of Gibraltar for the first time, to realize that The Rock, that famous promontory, actually faces Spain and not the Strait of Gibraltar leading into the Mediterranean. Once the cloud cover clears, and the entire enormity of it is revealed, though, it's an amazing sight visible from the cruise ship docks.
Gibraltar is a British Crown Colony, but geographically, it's actually an isthmus of Spain which, over the years, has caused no end of irritation on the part of the Spanish government. In fact, during the reign of Ferdinand Franco, he got so upset that the British refused to cede the territory to Spain that he closed the border and cut off telephone communications. Recent relations between the British and the Spanish governments have been quite cozy, with Great Britain even entertaining thoughts of handing Gibraltar over; a referendum in 2002 put the kabosh on that, though, since the Gibraltarians would have none of it... they are British and want nothing to do with Spanish citizenship.
The 1400-foot high “rock” is a limestone formation, riddled with as many as 140 caves. Remains of pre-Neanderthal humans have been found inside the rock and in areas surrounding it, but the territory's more recent history is at once turbulent and inspiring.
In turn peopled by Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Muslims, Moors, Spanish, Dutch and finally the British, the town of Gibraltar was formed in the 11th century by North African Islamics. The city is said to be “British Colonial built on Spanish Colonial built on Moorish.” And that is exactly what the charming city resembles, with all of the influences present in its architecture and structures.
Owing its current status to Lord Nelson (who protected it during The Great Siege), there are several monuments honoring the Admiral, and museum exhibits that explain the most recent history of the region. The strategic location of the territory has caused it to be used over the centuries as a fortified battlement, and in fact, The Rock itself has over 30 miles of roads within it.
Traveling to the top of The Rock is almost mandatory and is easily accomplished via land tours or a quick cable car trip. At the top is a splendid nature preserve, and along the way one can visit with the Barbary apes and even the Barbary partridge, both unique to Gibraltar.
As for the future of the territory, it is claimed that as long as the Barbary apes inhabit Gibraltar, it will remain a British colony. You can bet that the apes are prized and pampered and coddled, and have no plans to leave The Rock anytime soon.
LANGUAGE
English is the spoken language in Gibraltar, although Spanish, Arabic and Portuguese are widely spoken as well.
CURRENCY AND THE BEST WAY TO GET MONEY
The Gibraltar pound (on par with British pounds) is the standard currency but items are priced in both pounds and Euros. Shuttles at the cruise dock will accept U.S. dollars for passage; there are plenty of ATMs in the city center, and several exchange booths, most of which don't charge a commission (check first).
BEST SOUVENIR
*Gibraltar Crystal - (Grand Casemates, telephone: 350-79980) Produced in Gibraltar and entirely handmade, you can watch items being formed and even design your own pieces, from wine glasses to large vases. The glass factory is located in an old army barracks in the town square.
*Stuffed Monkeys - We're partial to the wide array of stuffed monkeys available on The Rock, meant to capitalize on the Barbary apes that call the region home. Never mind that the apes have no tails and most of the stuffed animals do, they're fun and range from teeny squeakers for the pups to great big, fat and fluffy stuffed companions.
WHERE YOU'RE DOCKED
Cruise ships dock at Gibraltar's recently-built cruise ship terminal just a mile from the center of town. Expansion plans call for a promenade to be built, linking the terminal with the core shopping and entertainment areas.
HANGING AROUND
The cruise ship terminal is small but does offer international telephones, a snack outlet and a couple of touristy/trinkety kiosks for souvenirs. Otherwise it's bland and there is nothing else around it except a yacht marina.
GETTING AROUND
Gibraltar comprises just under four square miles so ostensibly one could do everything on foot, but in fact, it's impractical due to the vertical geography of The Rock. The town center is just a mile from the dock but part of it is a rigorous uphill climb, so most visitors choose to take the frequent mini-van shuttles (one pound sterling, two dollars or one and a half Euros each way). In town, taxis are readily available but fairly pricey relative to the short distances traveled. If you choose to book a shore excursion in town rather than through the ship, the buses and guides leave from a central area near the main square.
DON'T MISS
*Cable Car - (Main Street; telephone: 350 74950) You can take the cable car to the top of The Rock and see both Spain in Europe and Morocco in Africa; the trip takes eight minutes to ascend the 1000 feet to the top, at which point there is a restaurant, souvenir shop and pub. On your way up or down you can stop to see the Barbary apes at “The Ape's Den,” the cave in which they reside. Cost is about eight pounds for the roundtrip fare including a stop to see the apes.
*Ape's Den and Great Siege Tunnels - Partway up the Rock face is a stop at the Ape's Den, where you can get out and explore. The tailless Barbary apes will visit with you but beware, they love snatching purses, cameras, hats and sunglasses.
*Upper St. Michael's Cave - St. Michael's Cave Also known as Cathedral Cave, the unique geophysical properties of this treasure, descending some 250 feet below the entrance, makes it ideally acoustic, and part of it is set up as a concert venue. These days, classical music is piped through for tourists, but the chambers are still used for concerts, solo performances and ballets. Entry is free with a cable car ticket.
*Shopping on Main Street and in the Square - Gibraltar is tax-free and the shopping is lovely. There are many British stores like Marks and Spencer, some Spanish stores, and some that are unique to this multi-ethnic community. Linens and Spanish mantillas are available in the main square at most reasonable prices; leather goods and clothing can be found along the main street, pedestrians only, that winds its way to The Alameda Gardens at the foot of The Rock.
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